Very deep ruby with crimson reflections, excellent viscosity with abundant legs, indicating superb structure; very rich, intense and fragrant bouquet of wild berries, sweet spice, tobacco and chocolate with earthy, clayey notes characteristic of dry soil;
Best paired with flavorful and slightly spicy dishes or fish with capers, typical of the Aeolian Islands. (E.g.: fresh tuna with capers.)
The present owner’s father was a legendary figure in Italian winemaking. Bohemian in origin, Bresciano by birth, Carlo Hauner, Sr. (1927-1996) began his career as a painter then moved to Brazil, where he also established a brilliant international reputation as a designer. After a few years there, he returned to his native country and during the 1950s and ’60s, did several exhibitions in Milan.
In the summer of 1963, he first came to the Aeolian Islands for the holidays: at the time, these gorgeous Mediterranean locations were still a well kept secret, off the beaten tourist track. That first summer was a turning point in Hauner’s life: he’d been looking for the perfect colors, the perfect sunlight throughout his work as artist and designer. Here, at Salina, Carlo Hauner had found them.
He began to visit the island more and more often, fascinated by its natural beauty and by the ancient practice of harvesting Malvasia grapes in mid-September and allowing them to dry for a couple of weeks on outdoor racks during the day, taking them in at sunset to make Malvasia delle Lipari - once known as the ”nectar of the gods”.
Hauner eventually purchased 20 hectares of land (49 acres) that had been abandoned in the turbulent post-war years, when a good portion of the population emigrated from the islands. He replanted the new property in vineyard terraces overhanging the sea, suspended between the dark volcanic soil and dazzling Tyrrhenian waters, and steeped himself in research on Malvasia delle Lipari (Lipari is another name for Aeolian Islands). Carlo read everything he could get his hands on, ancient and modern texts; listened to local experts and observed how things were done; then stepped in to bring his own, fresh perspective, creativity and intuition to the art of Malvasia. (Two of Hauner’s innovations were drying the grapes on the vines and the use of refrigeration during fermentation.)
In the 1980s, Carlo inaugurated a brand new winery at Lingua, in the commune of Santa Marina Salina, with temperature-controlled equipment, stainless steel vats and tanks, oak barrels and barriques, totaling 1,200 hectoliters in capacity. The Hauner winery acted as a magnet and a catalyst to critics, wine writers, enologists, other growers and the media: Carlo Hauner had triggered a renaissance not only of the islands’ most celebrated wine but of the islands themselves, which in due course were inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
After the state-of-the-art new winery was implemented, the Hauner range saw several additions. In February 1996, Carlo Hauner, Sr.’s demise did not put an end to the winery’s exceptional story thanks to Carlo’s dynamic son, Carlo Hauner, Jr., who is flanked by general manager Gianfranco Sabbatino.
Today, the total surface area under vine on the islands is 29 hectares i.e. 72 acres, 23 hectares of which on the island of Salina, 3 hectares (7.4 acres) on Vulcano, exclusively devoted to Hiera (pomace soil from older volcanic terrain compared to Salina, with high sulphur content; compact, almost tuff-like), and 3 hectares on mainland Sicily near Butera, heart of the Nero d’Avola area, with richer soil and higher component of clay. To get these figures in perspective, only think the ENTIRE surface area under vine on the islands (Hauner’s and other producers’ together) is 80 hectares (198 acres), 60 of which on Salina...