|After spending time in wine marketing and sales roles, Laurent Cognard returned home to his parents’ vineyards in 2004, determined to create wines of style, transparency, and precision from the 6 hectares that had previously seen their fruit sold to the local cooperative. He has set about a program of revamping the vines toward organic viticulture, with traditional ploughing to both control vegetation and to drive the roots downward, controlling yields, and harvesting manually. Natural methods are employed in the cellar as well, and the early results are stunning. Happily, these wines are from Montagny, the southern-most region of the Côte Chalonnaise (only white wines allowed) and therefore, despite being top white Burgundy, they are priced at bargain rates. This may change as Mr. Cognard becomes increasingly well known, but for now this is one of those happy surprises, to relish and enjoy. This cuvée is tightly wound, with bracing acidity and a stony, long presence that lingers and refreshes.